Can a Pattern be Resized?
Have you ever fallen in love with a knitwear design, and then gasped and thrown your hands up in despair to find that the instructions are written only in one or two sizes, with the expectation that all knitters know how to re-size a pattern? Despair not - with practice, it's not really too hard to modify a design exactly to your size. And the bonus is that once you understand the simple arithmetic of size conversions, gauge conversions become an automatic snap too. What follows is an example of the calculations involved, based on a simple cardigan pattern we once offered in the Elann Free Patterns Section.
Original Pattern:
LINIE 68 - TIVOLI ALL-SEASON CARDIGANby ONline
SIZES
Size 6-8 and 10-12 (finished bust approximately 38, 42"; finished length approximately 22.5"). Figures in brackets refer to size 10-12. If only one figure is given, it applies to all sizes. Materials
- 7 (8) balls of OnLine Linie 68 Tivoli (or comparable bulky weight novelty yarn - 12 st/4" - 90m/98 yards per 50g ball)
- One pair size 6mm (US 10) needles or size needed to obtain gauge.
- One button. STITCHES
Rib patt: alt K1, P1.
Basic patt: stockinette stitch = K on Rs, P on Ws. GAUGE
11 sts and 17 rows to 4~ - 10 cm square.
METHOD
Back: Cast on 55(59) sts and cont in basic patt. When work measures 14 1/8~ - 36 cm (13 1/4~ - 34 cm) bind off for armholes 3 sts at each end once, then 1 st on every other row 3(4) times = 43(45) sts. When work measures 20 7/8~ - 53 cm, bind off the 23 center sts for neck and finish each side separately. At neck edge bind off on every other row 2 sts once and 1 st. once. When work measures 22~ - 56 cm, bind off rem 7(8) shoulder sts. Left Front: Cast on 28(30) sts and cont in basic patt. Shape armhole at right edge as given for back. When work measures 18 1/8~ - 46 cm, bind off for neck 5 sts at left edge. For shape bind off on every other row 3 sts once, 2 sts once and 1 st 5 times. When work measures 22~ - 56 cm bind off rem 7(8) for shoulder. Right Front: Follow directions for Left Front, reversing all shapings. Sleeves: (Make 2 alike) Cast on 31(33) sts and cont in basic patt. For sleeve shaping inc 1 st at each end of every 10th row 3 times (0), then 1 st on every 8th row 3(7) times = 43(47) sts. When work measures 13 1/4~ - 34 cm, bind off for sleeve top 3 sts at each end once, then on every other row 2 sts once, 1 st 8(9) times, 3 sts once, bind off rem 11 (13) sts. Finishing: Join shoulder seams, sew sleeves in position, then join side and sleeve seams. Round neck edge pick up 69 sts (front 20 sts each, back 29 sts) and work 1 1/8~ - 3 cm in rib patt, after 5/8~ - 1.5 cm work buttonhole: at right edge K sts 3 and 4 tog, yo. Sew button onto left band edge.
Abbreviations
Alt Alternate Approx approximately Beg begin(ning) CC contrast color Ch chain Cont continue Dec decrease Foll follow(ing) Inc increase K knit P purl Patt pattern MC main color Rem remaining Rep repeat RS right side Sl slip SC single crochet SSK sl next 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time to RH needle; then insert LH needle through front of sts and k2tog. St stitch ST st Stockinette stitch Tog together WYIB with yarn in back WYIF with yarn in front WS wrong side {}Work instructions inside brackets as many times as indicated outside brackets Yo yarn over. Please note this pattern is copyrighted material and the entire contents of this pattern are copyrighted as a collective work under the copyright laws of the United States. You may print a copy of this pattern for your own personal use and enjoyment, but editing, publishing, transmitting, e-mailing, posting it to a list service or database, or otherwise commercially exploiting this pattern is strictly forbidden.Copyright ONline Klaus Koch GMBH & Co. KG, Rheinstrasse 19, 35260 Stadtallendorf, Germany. |
Re-Size Step 1: Schematic Diagram
Easiest for re-sizing are patterns which include a schematic diagram - a drawing of each knitted piece with its dimensions. As with most European patterns, the original schematic diagram for the Tivoli Cardigan showed all measurements in centimeters. Our first step was to convert the measurements on this diagram to inches (by multiplying all figures by .4):
Re-Size Step 2: Determine Desired Re-Sized Finished Dimensions
1. Body Measurements
Take precise measurements of the body of the intended wearer. There excellent diagrams and instructions to help you with this at http://www.yarnstandards.com/sizing.html.
2. Wearing Ease
Take a close look at the garment you've chosen to knit as it appears on the model. How close to the body does it appear to fit to achieve its intended look? Wearing ease standards, along with sizing charts for children, women, and men can also be found at http://www.yarnstandards.com/sizing.html. You will need to decide if the garment is meant to be very close-fitting (same chest/bust measurement of the wearer or less), close-fitting (1-2" bust/chest wearing ease), standard-fitting (2-4" bust/chest wearing ease), loose-fitting (4-6" bust/chest wearing ease), or oversized (greater than 6" bust/chest wearing ease). e.g. The Tivoli All-Season Cardigan, pictured above, is meant to be worn atop another garment, and looks loose (approximately 4-6" bust wearing ease) on the model. If so, the finished bust/chest measurements of 38" and 42" were likely intended to fit wearers with actual bust measurements of 32-34" and 36-38".
3. Finished Dimensions
Determine your desired re-sized dimensions. The best place to start is with the finished dimensions of a knitted garment you already love to wear (because it fits right!) with approximately the same wearing ease as the garment you are resizing. Measure its finished bust, finished armhole depth, and sleeve length. Always keep in mind the following simple formula:
Body Measurements + Wearing Ease = Finished Dimensions
For the purposes of illustration, we decided to expand the pattern directions for the Tivoli Cardigan to include two larger sizes - finished bust 44" and 48" (for actual bust 38-40" and 42-44"). Using the approximate ratios of the two smallest sizes originally shown, we added new proportionate dimensions to the schematic below:
Re-Size Step 3: Estimate How Much Less/More Yarn will be Required
It's a simple matter of proportions - yes, more arithmetic! Let's look at our example of the Tivoli Cardigan, and the yarn required to complete the sizes in the original patterns. The finished bust size 38" calls for 7 balls of bulky weight (12-14 stitches/4") yarn yielding 98 yards per ball (686 yards), and the finished bust size 42" calls for 8 balls of bulky weight (12-14 stitches/4") yarn yielding 98 yards per ball (784 yards). This makes sense, since 42" is about 1.11 times 38" (686 x 1.1 = 755, rounded for full balls).
Carrying on to calculate how much we'll need for our expanded sizes, 44" is about 1.16 x 38", so we will probably need about 796 yards (686 x 1.16) for the 44" size. 48" is about 1.26 x 38", so we will probably need about 864 yards (686 x 1.26) for the 48" size. To use Tivoli yarn, we would divide 98 yards per ball into 796 and 864 respectively and determine that either of our expanded sizes would use 9 balls.
Re-Size Step 4: Expand the Pattern Instructions to Match your Re-Sized Schematic
Crucial to accuracy in re-sizing is gauge - both horizontal (the number of stitches per inch) and vertical (number of rows per inch). Be sure to make a test gauge swatch for the yarn you intend to knit with. For the purposes of our simple example, we're going to use the original gauge shown in the Tivoli Cardigan pattern, but keep in mind that once you've mastered the simple arithmetic of re-sizing, converting instructions to different gauges becomes easy too, since the same formula always applies, regardless of gauge.
The gauge given in the Tivoli Cardigan pattern is 11 stitches and 17 rows to 4", which is 2.75 stitches (horizontal gauge) and 4.25 rows (vertical gauge) per inch. This means that for all of our resized horizontal measurements, we must multiply the horizontal measurement by 2.75, and for all the re-sized vertical measurements where the number of rows must be precise (i.e. in areas of shaping), we must multiply the vertical measurement by 4.25 to determine the number of rows we must shape over.
Example - Re-Sized Tivoli Cardigan Instructions
Instructions for finished bust sizes 44" and 48"
SIZES:
Sizes 12-14/14-16 (finished bust approximately 44"/48"; finished length approximately 23"/24").
Materials
- 9/9 balls of OnLine Linie 68 Tivoli (or comparable bulky weight novelty yarn - 12 st/4" - 90m/98 yards per 50g ball).
- One pair size 6mm (US 10) needles or size needed to obtain gauge.
- One button.
STITCHES
Rib patt: alt K1, P1.
Basic patt: stockinette stitch = K on Rs, P on Ws.
GAUGE
11 sts and 17 rows to 4" square.
METHOD
Back:
Cast on 61/66 sts and cont in basic patt. (half bust = 22"/24" x 2.75 st/inch)
Work even for 13.5"/14" (per schematic diagram)
Shape armholes as follows: 3 sts at each end once, then 1 st on every other row 4/5 times = 47/50 sts.
Here's how we calculated the resized armhole shaping:
- total armhole-shaping decrease shown on schematic diagram is 2.5"/3" wide on each side x 2.75 st = 7/8 sts wide at each side.
- total width of back after armhole decreases = neck plus shoulder widths x 2 sides on diagram - 8.5"/9" x 2 sides x 2.75 st/inch = 47/50 sts
- therefore, a total of 14/16 stitches must be decreased (7/8 stitches on each side) to arrive at finished shaped back width of 17"/18" (47/50 stitches)
Work even for 21.75"/ 22.75" (per diagram - 13.5/14" to armhole + 9.5/10" for total armhole, minus 1.25 inches for back neck shaping).
Shape back neck as follows: bind off the 25/24 center sts for neck and finish each side separately. At neck edge bind off on every other row 2 sts once and 1 st. once. When work measures 22", bind off rem 8(10) shoulder sts.
Here's how we calculated the resized back neck shaping:
- before you shape the back neck you have 47/50 stitches on your needles.
- per the schematic diagram, the finished shoulder width is 3"/3.5" x 2.75 = 8/10 shoulder stitches on each side.
- 47/50 stitches, minus 16/20 stitches (2 shoulders) = 31/30 stitches total finished width for center back neck.
- shaping will remain the same as for original sizes, since we have kept depth of back neck shaping the same for all sizes - original back neck shaping is total decrease of 3 stitches on either side (6 stitches total).
- 31/30 stitches less 6 stitch decrease in shaping = 25/24 stitches for center cast off.
Left Front:
Cast on 32(35) sts [(.5/.5 + 11"/12") x 2.75 st/inch, with both figures rounded up] and cont in basic patt. Shape armhole at right edge as given for back (3 sts once, then 1 st on every other row 4/5 times) - 25/27 stitches remain.
When work measures 19"/20" (per diagram), shape left front neck as follows:
Bind off for neck 5 sts at left edge. For shape bind off on every other row 4 sts once, 3 sts once, and 1 st 5 times. Work even until work measures 23"/24" (19"/20" + 2.75" + 1.25", as shown in diagram), bind off rem 8(10) sts for shoulder.
Here's how we calculated the resized front neck shaping:
- before front neck shaping, front piece is 25/27 sts wide
- front shoulders are exactly the same as back shoulders - i.e. 3"/3.5" x 2.75 = 8/10 shoulder sts on each side.
- therefore, shaped front will have to decrease center front by 17/17 sts (25/27 sts minus 8/10 sts) - this makes sense, because after shaping, the front neck is 6"/6" wide (5.5"/5.5" + .5"/.5") = approx. 17/17 sts (6/6 x 2.75)
- since we did not want to add extra rows when we shaped (since front neck depth of 4" remains the same for all sizes), we used the original instructions, and added the extra decreases in the first cast-off stitches).
Right Front: Follow directions for Left Front, reversing all shapings.
Sleeves: (Make 2 alike) Cast on 33/35 sts and cont in basic patt, shaping sleeve as follows: Inc 1 st at each end of every 8th row 5/0 times, then 1 st at each end on every 6th row 3/10 times - 49/55 sts. on needle - work even until piece measures 14/14".
Here's how we calculated the resized sleeve increases:
- bottom of sleeve is 33/35 sts (see diagram - 6"/6.5" x 2 halves x 2.75, rounded to nearest uneven numbers)
- widest point of sleeve is 49/55 sts = (6"/6.5" + 3"/3.5") x 2 halves = 18"/20" x 2.75, rounded to the nearest uneven numbers)
- therefore, shaping must be an increase of 16/20 stitches
- there will be approximately 60 rows from bottom of sleeve to widest point (14"/14" x 4.25 rows/inch). How did we arrive at every 8th, and then every 6th row for the increases? More arithmetic! 60 rows, divided by 8/10 increase rows (one stitch at each end to get 16/20 increased stitches = increases average every 7.5/6 rows). Once you know this, you can just play with plugging in numbers until the slope is as even as you can make it. The average of an even 6 rows x 10 decreases was easy - the 7.5 average meant that the increases had to first be every 8th row, and then every 6th row.
Bind off for sleeve top 3 sts at each end once/once, then on every other row 2 sts once/twice, 1 st 9/9 times, 3 sts once/once, bind off rem 15 (17) sts.
Here's how we calculated the resized sleeve top shaping:
- here we had to rely on the proportioning the original smaller sizes instructions, as the width at the top of the sleeve was not shown on the original diagram. Since the top of the sleeve was 11/13 stitches for the smaller sizes, we decided to make the top of the sleeve 15/17 stitches for the larger sizes.
- if the widest point of our sleeve is 49/55 stitches, and we want the top of the sleeve to be 15/17 sts, we will need to decrease 34/38 stitches
- the decrease will occur over 23/ 25 rows (5.5"/ 6" top of sleeve on schematic x 4.25 rows/inch).
Finishing: Join shoulder seams, sew sleeves in position, then join side and sleeve seams. Round neck edge pick up 76 sts (each front 22 sts, back 32 sts).
Here's how we calculated the re-sized neckband:
- original neck opening for smaller sizes was 20" (5" on diagram x 4), and instructions were to pick up 69 sts (each front 20 sts, back 29 sts)
- our resized neckband is 22" (5.5" on diagram x 4), which is 1.1 times larger (22 divided by 20 = 1.1)
- therfore, we multiplied the original neck band stitches by 1.1 to arrive at pick up 76 sts (each front 22 sts, back 32 sts).
Work 1 1/8" - 3 cm in rib patt, after 5/8" - 1.5 cm work buttonhole: at right edge K sts 3 and 4 tog, yo. Sew button onto left band edge. (Same as original instructions).
Please note this pattern and discussion are copyrighted material and the entire contents of this pattern are copyrighted as a collective work under the copyright laws of the United States. You may print a copy of this pattern for your own personal use and enjoyment, but editing, publishing, transmitting, e-mailing, posting it to a list service or database, or otherwise commercially exploiting this pattern is strictly forbidden.Copyright elann.com and ONline Klaus Koch GMBH & Co. KG, Rheinstrasse 19, 35260 Stadtallendorf, Germany.
